|Plaque commemorating the Bastille Fortress|
|Bastille plaque above Cafe on Place de la Bastille|
The last day, Tuesday, was spent in cleaning and packing, although towards dusk we returned for a final sit at the Place des Vosges.
We had passed to or through the Place de la Bastille many times. It's a very grand traffic circle with a fine column in the center and plenty of life on the sidewalks all around it. The Bastille fortress itself is long gone, pulled down shortly following the revolution. It was on the northwest part of the present place, and Carolee finally spotted a plaque commemorating it.
This morning we did a test run on the #20 bus to see if would be a good way to get from our neighborhood to the Place de l'Opera to meet the Roissybus when we return to Charles De Gaulle airport. The test was successful: 7-10 minutes slower than the metro but no need to lug suitcases up and down stairs in the Metro. Well, being in the Opera area we stopped again at Galeries Lafayette, then cruised again down Rue de la Paix to the Tuileries Garden, but this time turned right on the center walkway for a short walk to the Concorde metro stop, and home from there. Quite successful, this experiment. Buses it is!
|Andre Jacquemart Museum, rear entrance|
Not yet exhausted, we strolled over to the Champs Elysees and the main Swatch store so Carolee could find a particular watch. No luck with this, but a stroll through the crowds on the Champs Elysees was a real pleasure.
|Administrative building for 12th, with Space Invader|
|Cute street art on Ile St Louis|
|More cute street art|
|Cheap change of business sign|
Pont des Arts, once again
|Bookstalls, Notre Dame in background|
|Odd name, shades of Oliver Sachs' Uncle Tungsten|
|Lunch and a fine wine at Les Charpentiers|
|Hotel Schmuck, 6th Arrondissement|
|Fancy cheese shop in Rue Cler|
As you'll see, 9/11 wasn't over for us. Carolee wanted to go over by the Eiffel Tower and up the Trocadero again. Fine with me. So we hopped off the #8 metro at Ecole Militaire and started off our plan by deviating from it into the Rue Cler. Rick Steve's book makes much of the Rue Cler market, so we had to see it. It turned out to be a good deal smaller than our Aligre market, and somewhat ritzier. Prices for produce were 50% to 300% higher than we were used to. So much for that!
A short hop along the Rue de Grenelle brought us back to the Champ de Mars and that long, impressive walk to the base of the tower. But first we ran into barricades and thick crowds. It seemed it had to do with a women's race with several thousand participants. The distance, I think, was 6 kilometers. But heading towards the tower we had to wait to get across the race path. At the base, wow! Lines to go up the tower were now one half to one-third the length they had been earlier in the summer. I suppose the light rain was a factor. Going up wasn't for us, so it was across the Pont d'Iena and up the Trocadero hill.
Well, something was going on - US and French flags were flying and in the plaza there was a large construction which resembled a bandstand. Later we came to understand that it was a representation of the twin towers. Near the top they wouldn't let us up so we had to detour around the west end of the Palais de Chaillot. This turned into a bit of a treat, because a tidy little artificial glen with running water had been constructed, and it made for a pleasant slog up the hill. At the top the presence of media vans made all clear for us - a ceremony was about to commence. Rather than hang around for that we went a bit further up the hill and entered the small Passy Cemetery. We failed to find the grave of Edouard Manet, but struck gold with the tombs of a couple of composers, Claude Debussy and Gabriel Faure. While searching we heard the amplified voice of a young American woman singing "Amazing Grace." Gave me a funny feeling while surrounded by tombs and mournfully shedding trees.
From there we took the #6 metro home, surrounded by some of the runners in their blue jerseys. This line is largely elevated, but aside from two brief views of the Seine and one of the Eiffel Tower, it shows parts of Paris that you would never go out of your way to see.
|Ecole Militaire, assembly area for 5000-woman run|
|Eiffel Tower, it's rainy again|
|End of 5000-woman run at Champs de Mars|
|Trocadero, 9/11/2011, from Pont d'Iena|
|Artificial stream and glade west of Palais de Chaillot|
|Twin Towers mockup, 9/11 commemoration at Trocadero|
|At Passy Cemetery across from Trocadero|
|Elegant alley at Passy Cemetery|
|Saint Nicolas, for Gertrude|
|Super elegant tassels at Houles, on our street|
Crossing back to the main galleries we lingered by the Winged Victory, in spite of the thick crowds that now made the steps a bit perilous for me. Then around through the early Italian paintings and through the room with the Mona Lisa, with its own large crowd resembling a bee swarm with camera-wielding arms protruding like antennae. From there down, back out through the pyramid and homeward.
|Michelangelo's slave, model for the police building of the 12th|
|Mercury, blown aloft by Boreas|
|Venus and admirers|
|Venus de Milo, alone|
|Graceful Greek lady holding a shawm|
|Hey, she's pregnant!|
|Louvre, The Funeral of Cupid|
|Etiquette for Funeral of Love (Cupid)|
|Louvre, Anne of Cleves (Holbein)|
|Line to enter Pyramid. It moved fast|
|Winged Victory from the left|
|From the right|
|Winged Victory captured|
|By Notre Dame, trees already giving up for the year|
|Louvre, Cupid & Psyche by Canova|